Best Landscape Photography Camera Settings: Beginner Guide
This article is all about learning the best landscape photography camera settings so you can get out there and take photos you love: without the overwhelm!
One of the things I love about landscape photography is being out there in nature.
Whether that’s at a beach or waterfall, there’s something special about trying to capture the beauty of nature; particularly at sunrise where I watch the sun pop its first rays over the horizon.
But let’s be honest, photographing these breathtaking scenes can be quite challenging when you’re first starting out. There is so much to take in and so many settings to think of.
The lighting conditions constantly change with the weather and time of day, which means you need to adjust your camera settings accordingly.
So, I’d love to share with you the best landscape photography camera settings you should be using to capture those stunning shots.
The best camera settings for landscape photography start with shooting in manual mode. Set your ISO to the lowest possible, Aperture to F8-F11, and adjust your shutter speed to achieve the correct exposure.
Your settings will change depending on the scene, so let’s look in more detail.
Before we get started, I wanted to share my FREE Landscape Photography Toolkit with you.
It’s packed with practical tips and checklists to help you capture beautiful scenes with more confidence, starting NOW!
Set And Forget: Before You Go
There are some things you can prepare before you even leave home.
This will give you less things you need to think about when you’re out in the field and trying to remember everything.
Make life easier for yourself when you are out shooting and program the following in so you don’t need to worry:
- Format: RAW
- Mode: Manual
- White Balance: Auto
- Metering Mode: Evaluative
- Autofocus: Single Point
- Drive Mode: Single shot with a 2-second timer
If you dial these settings in before you leave home, you can then just focus on finding your composition, pop your camera on your tripod and adjust your shutter speed before you start shooting.
This can be particularly helpful when you are shooting a sunrise (my favourite) as it’s usually dark; anything you can do beforehand is a bonus.
Now onto a breakdown of each of the essential settings to master for landscape photography.
Shoot in RAW
If you love your landscape photography like I do, you will want your images to be of the highest quality with the most detail possible. That’s why shooting in RAW format is the way to go.
RAW files contain more information than JPEG files, giving you greater control over the final image’s quality, detail, and size.
While RAW files may initially appear less colourful or saturated than other formats like JPEG, this is because the camera doesn’t apply as much processing to the file.
However, with some basic post-processing, you can easily enhance the colour, detail, and dynamic range of your RAW images, resulting in stunning and vibrant final images.
So, shooting in RAW format can help you capture the best possible landscape photos.
If (unlike me) you would like more technical information on RAW format versus JPEG, check ou tthis article by Photography Life: Raw vs JPEG: Which Image Format is Better and Why.
Use Manual or Aperture Priority Mode
When it comes to camera modes, there are several options that can be helpful in landscape photography, including both manual and automatic modes.
In Auto mode, the camera makes all the exposure and focus adjustments for you, which can be useful if you’re new to photography or want to quickly capture a scene without worrying about technical settings.
Another automatic mode is Aperture Priority mode, which allows you to control the aperture setting while the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed for correct exposure.
Similarly, Shutter Priority mode lets you control the shutter speed while the camera automatically adjusts the aperture for correct exposure.
When you shoot in Manual mode, you have complete control over your camera’s aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, which are the three key factors that determine how your image will look.
This means that you can adjust these settings based on the specific lighting conditions and creative vision for your shot.
This is especially important when photographing landscapes where lighting conditions can change quickly.
Water and clouds, for example, can create movement in the scene, making it difficult for your camera’s automatic settings to accurately capture the moment.
With manual mode, you have the flexibility to adjust your settings on the fly and create the perfect exposure for the shot.
I do usually shoot in manual mode, particularly at shoots when my camera is on a tripod and I have time to fine tune the settings as I go, and this is how I learned when starting out.
If you do find manual mode just too much when you’re starting out, I recommend aperture mode. This way you will start from the point of having all of your image sharp, and you can let the camera choose the shutter speed.
Setting the White Balance
White balance is a camera setting that helps you adjust the colours in your photos to make them look more natural.
If the white balance setting on your camera is not set correctly, the colours in your photos may look too warm or too cool, making them appear unnatural, and I’m guessing you don’t want this.
The main white balance settings you may use in landscape photography are:
Daylight/Sunny: This setting is best used when shooting in daylight or bright sunlight.
Cloudy: This setting is best used when shooting on a cloudy day, as it adds warmth to the photo.
If you are shooting in RAW format, leave the White Balance set to auto in your camera as this is easy to adjust in post-processing.
If you are shooting in JPEG it isn’t as easy to adjust later, so it is best to determine the correct white balance when you are shooting.
As I shoot in RAW, I just leave the white balance set to auto: one less thing to think about when out in the field.
Metering Mode: Evaluative
Metering modes are a feature on your camera that helps you get the right exposure for your photos.
When you take a photo, your camera looks at the light in the scene to figure out the best settings to use, like how long to keep the shutter open or how much light to let in. Metering modes let you control how the camera looks at the light in the scene.
There are three main metering modes you can choose from:
Matrix/Evaluative: This mode looks at the light across the entire scene and figures out the best settings based on that information. It’s a good general-purpose mode that works in most situations.
Centre-weighted: This mode looks mostly at the light in the centre of the scene and uses that information to help set the right exposure. It’s good when you want to take a photo of something in the centre of the scene.
Spot: This mode looks at a very small area in the centre of the scene, usually around 1-5% of the whole frame. It’s useful when you want to take a photo of something specific in the scene.
Evaluative metering is a great metering mode to use in landscape photography because it considers the overall lighting of the scene.
This is especially helpful for landscape photos, which often have a wide range of light and shadow. This mode calculates the best exposure for the entire scene, and it’s another thing that I tend to set and forget.
Keep in mind that the camera doesn’t always get this right, so it can be good to experiment with different metering modes to see which one works best for a particular scene.
Single Point Autofocus
When it comes to focus modes in cameras, there are a few common options to choose from that can be helpful in landscape photography.
One option is Single Point Autofocus, which allows you to choose exactly where in the scene you want the camera to focus. This is helpful when you have a specific subject you want to focus on.
Another option is Continuous Autofocus, which is useful when you want to track a moving subject, such as a bird or animal. This mode will continuously adjust the focus as the subject moves, ensuring that it stays sharp throughout the shot.
Finally, there’s Manual Focus, which gives you complete control over the focus of the lens. This mode can be helpful when you want to be very precise with your focus, such as in macro photography.
The best way I’ve found to make sure you’re focusing on the right place, and not letting your camera decide, is to set your Focus Mode to Single Point Autofocus.
Drive Mode: Single shot with a 2-second timer
When it comes to drive modes in cameras, there are a few common options that can be useful in landscape photography.
One option is Single shot mode, which means the camera will take one photo at a time. This can be helpful in landscape photography when you want to take your time to compose the shot and ensure that everything is in focus before taking the photo.
Another option is Continuous shooting mode, which allows the camera to take multiple photos in quick succession while you hold down the shutter button. This can be useful in situations where you want to capture movement or action, such as waves crashing on the beach or a bird taking off in flight.
There’s also a Self-Timer mode, which delays the shutter release by a set amount of time, usually 2-10 seconds. This can be helpful in landscape photography when you want to reduce camera shake and ensure sharper photos.
Set your Drive Mode to Single shot with a 2-second timer to take one shot at a time without you touching the camera when it takes the shot.
When you press the shutter button to take a photo, there is a chance that your finger movement can cause the camera to shake, resulting in a blurry photo.
By using the 2-second timer, you can take your finger off the shutter button and let the camera stabilise before the photo is taken. This can help reduce camera shake and result in sharper, clearer photos.
Now it’s time to look at each of the settings to adjust when you’re at your shoot.
Time To Shoot: Adjust As You Go
Now that we’ve covered everything you can set up before you go, it’s time to get into the specific camera settings you’ll need to know to capture beautiful landscape photos.
So, let’s take a look at the different camera settings you’ll need to know, such as ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed, and more.
Although it may seem overwhelming at first, don’t be discouraged – with practice and patience, you’ll become more comfortable adjusting these settings in different situations.
Just remember, these settings will vary depending on the lighting conditions and environment you’re shooting in, so don’t be afraid to play around with them until you find the perfect balance.
ISO: 100 or the lowest your camera will go
Using the lowest possible ISO is a must in landscape photography to ensure clean, noise-free images and capture the highest dynamic range possible.
This one really is non-negotiable, especially when using a tripod (which is an absolute essential).
The dynamic range of your photos is important when capturing landscapes, as it’s the difference between the brightest and darkest areas of your image.
By using the lowest ISO possible, you’ll be able to capture the full range of tones, resulting in a more detailed and dynamic photo.
Plus, keeping your ISO low can help reduce noise and graininess in your photos, especially in low-light conditions. This will give you cleaner and sharper images that really showcase the beauty of the landscape.
One thing to keep in mind is that using a low ISO typically requires longer shutter speeds when you are photographing landscape photos in low light (the best time!), which can result in blurry photos if your camera isn’t stable.
That’s where a tripod comes in handy. By using a tripod, you can stabilise your camera and capture sharp, well-defined landscape photos even with longer shutter speeds.
Aperture: F8 to F11
It can take some practice to get the hang of using aperture to achieve the desired effect in your landscape photos, but one general rule of thumb is to use an aperture between f/8 and f/11.
This is because, in landscape photography, you typically want most of your image to be in focus, from the foreground to the background. By using an aperture in this range, you can achieve a deep depth of field that keeps everything sharp and in focus.
Of course, this isn’t a hard and fast rule, and you can still experiment with different apertures to achieve different effects, but using an aperture in this range is a good starting point for getting those stunning landscape shots.
Shutter Speed
Now that you’ve set your ISO and Aperture, it’s time to set your shutter speed so you are ready to take your photos.
You should be using a tripod so you can use the speed that is needed to balance your exposure.
Us landscape photographers love the effect of intentionally blurring moving water or clouds and this is achieved by using a longer shutter speed.
To blur motion, I usually choose a shutter speed between 1/10th and 10 seconds. I choose a speed based on how fast the water is moving and how much texture I want.
Depending on the light and conditions you may also need to adjust your aperture or use filters to get both the shutter speed you want and a correct exposure.
Let’s look at putting this all together with the Exposure Triangle …
The Exposure Triangle
The exposure triangle is a tool used to show the relationship between the three elements that make up exposure – ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed.
These three elements work together to determine the amount of light that enters your camera. By adjusting them, you control the exposure to achieve the look you are after in your photos.
So, when you adjust one element, you need to adjust either one or both of the other elements to compensate.
We have started with our ISO at 100, Aperture at say F11 and used our shutter speed to balance out the exposure.
That’s all great in theory but it may not give you the photo you are looking for, so how do you put this into practice when you’re out in the field?
Firstly, you need to decide what is the most important thing to capture. Pick the one or two elements that can’t be compromised.
Secondly, adjust the other element (s) accordingly to achieve the correct exposure for your image.
Example One:
You are shooting the ocean at sunrise. You want a noise free image that is sharp and in focus front to back. In this case you will want your ISO to be at 100 and your aperture around F11. To achieve the correct exposure you will need to adjust your shutter speed, the only remaining element of the exposure triangle.
Example Two:
You’re photographing a waterfall and you want that water to be smooth, but still with a bit of texture. To achieve this you will need a shutter speed between 0.5 and 2 seconds. This can’t be compromised, so you will need to adjust your aperture and/or ISO to achieve this.
This will definitely require some adjusting as you go, so don’t be afraid to take lots of photos.
Check the back of your camera after each shot and keep adjusting until you get it right.
This is the beauty of shooting digital images – just make sure you have a spare memory card!
Conclusion
So, in a nutshell, the best camera setting for landscape photography depends on various factors such as the time of day, weather conditions, and what you’re trying to capture.
The key takeaway is to keep experimenting with different settings and techniques until you find what works best for you.
You’ll get better and better with practice, so don’t worry.
To give yourself a head start, you can try using the settings listed below as a starting point each time you go out to shoot.
Of course, you’ll still need to experiment and adjust as needed, but these settings can give you a good foundation to work from:
One of the best things about landscape photography is that there are so many different landscapes to photograph and explore.
So grab your gear, head outside and try these settings. I’m confident they will get you off to a great start!
