Seascape Photography: 10 Easy Steps For Awesome Ocean Images

This article is all about seascape photography.

Most of my photos are of seascapes. I live on the coast so I have been shooting seascapes since I began my photography journey.

I thought I’d share what I have learned about seascape photography so you can get out and capture some beautiful seascape photos.

Here you will learn where to go, when best to go, what gear you need and some bonus tips for capturing the beauty that is the ocean.

Before we get started, I wanted to share my FREE Landscape Photography Toolkit with you.

 It’s packed with practical tips and checklists to help you capture beautiful scenes with more confidence, starting NOW!

Promotional graphic for a 'Landscape Photography Toolkit' featuring a sunset view of a lighthouse. The toolkit includes an Exposure Quick Start Guide, 7 Practical Checklists & Info Sheets, and an On-The-Go Camera Settings Cheat Sheet. A 'Free Download' badge is present, and a button at the bottom reads 'Send Me The Toolkit'.

Get ready to get wet and improve your seascape photography with these tips.

Safety First

Seascape photography can be risky. As a seascape photographer, you will spend some of your time walking over slippery and sharp rocks as the tides change and the waves move around you.

Here’s some simple tips to minimise those risks.

  • Never turn your back on the ocean. Rogue waves really can come out of nowhere.
  • Stay away from the edges, no matter how tempting it can be to get that composition. A big wave can easily take you in.
  • Some of the algae and moss is very slippery. Wearing sturdy, or even rock shoes is an essential.
  • Always be aware of the predicted swell and tide before shooting seascape photography. More below on this.
  • Spend a few minutes checking out the ocean when you arrive. This will give you an idea of where the waves are reaching and where it is safest to stand. But be aware this can change at any time, particularly with an incoming tide
  • Keep Your Gear Safe – with you or super high on a ledge
  • Always stay close to your camera and tripod so you can move quickly if a rogue wave comes in that you’re not expecting.
  • Consider insurance for your gear. As careful as you can be, accidents still do happen so be prepared. Insurance is not just important for seascape photography, but all aspects of landscape photography, especially if you travel.

Finally, if possible, shoot with others when you can so you can look out for each other.

A breathtaking seascape at sunrise, where waves cascade over rocks, capturing the fluid motion of water under the warm light of the rising sun.
Getting close, but not too close!

Location, Location

Seascape photography offers so many photographic opportunities it can be easy to become overwhelmed.

Choosing your locations is key, so here are some tips to help you.

Research

Having a list of locations up your sleeve to work through can reduce this.

Once you’ve picked your next location, take advantage of apps such as The Photographer’s Ephemeris to determine where the sun will rise or set.

A coastal landscape at sunrise, featuring a rocky shoreline with large boulders in the foreground and a tree-covered hill in the background. The sky is filled with dramatic clouds, and the ocean waves gently wash onto the beach. Text at the bottom of the image reads: "Planning Landscape Photography: 5 Tips For A Successful Shoot."

Keep in mind that the best times for seascape photography, just like all landscape photography, is around sunrise and sunset. This is when the light is best and will improve your photos significantly.

So, plan in advance, and get there in plenty of time so you can set up and get your composition in place without stress. 

Scout

Scouting is something that is often overlooked when it comes to seascape photography. Time can be an issue of course, but if at all possible try and do a scout of the location in daylight before heading there, particularly for a sunrise shoot.

If it’s a sunset shoot, just allow plenty of time so you can fully explore the area and have some compositions prepared before you start shooting.

Here’s some simple things to include when on your scouting mission – 

  • Parking and access – particularly times if you are planning on arriving early or leaving late. I often take photos of signs etc. with my phone so I don’t forget.
  • Where the sun will be rising or setting.
  • Potential compositions and camera angles.
  • Safety – see above! Note where waves could come in, where the rock ledges are and potential slippery spots etc.
  • Take your phone to take potential shots for when you come back with your camera gear.
  • Make notes also in your phone if you have a memory like mine!
A powerful wave breaks over a rock ledge during sunrise, with water cascading down the rock face, all set against a vivid, colorful sky.

Conditions and Weather

Weather is of course important in all aspects of photography, but there are a few additional elements that need to be considered with seascape photography.

Tides

Knowing the tides of your location is one of the few things that make seascape photography different to other types of landscape photography.

There is no right or wrong tide in general as this will vary depending on the location.

The seascape of the coast changes drastically with the tides, and in the course of a few hours, you can see anything from tranquil sand beaches to rocky cliffs crashing against big waves.

Some locations may only be accessible at low tide, and it is extremely critical to time your visits right to these. You need to be able to get in, and out, safely. This is definitely the first thing to check and another reason why scouting beforehand is so valuable.

Noting the tide when you do your scouting at low tide is important. You don’t want to return with your camera at high tide only to discover that the rock you planned for your foreground is now submerged!

Every location has different features, and then these change with the tide. This means that some areas will only really work at low tide, and others will work better at high tide.

The view from inside a dark sea cave, looking out towards the rocky coastline and ocean beyond, bathed in the warm, golden light of the rising sun.
This is a location that has to be timed very carefully – low tide only or you risk not being able to get out!

Swell

Another unique thing to consider when doing seascape photography is the swell.

The size and strength of the swell can totally change conditions when you are on the edge of the coastline.

The main things to consider when planning your shoot is the height, strength, period and direction of the swell. These all determine the size of the waves, where they will be coming from and their power when they reach the coast. All which are critical when deciding when and where it will be safest to visit your location.

Big swells equaling big waves can make for awesome wave photography – from a distance!

There are many weather apps that provide tide and swell forecasts so make sure to check these before heading to your location.

Sun

As they say, timing is everything. With seascape photography you need to know the timing and location of the sun along with the swell and tides.

Seeing as I mostly do sunrises that is what the focus will be here, but you’ll definitely get the idea.

Arrive early and stay late.

Seascape photography is all about being in the right place at the right time. Arriving too late you risk missing the stunning light and colours. The same goes for if you leave too early.

Always arrive earlier than you think you should. There is nothing worse than driving to your location watching the sky light up with colour before you even get there.

The same goes at sunset – the sky can really explode for quite a while after the sun drops. You don’t want to be back in the car and the sky is all kinds of crazy colours.

In the case of sunrise, sometimes the best photos are taken long before the sun pops up. 

With sunsets it gives you more time to compose your shot before you start to lose the light.

Most important things to know with timing your shoots with the sun – 

  • First light, sunrise, sunset and last light. All the apps mentioned above will give you this information.
  • Direction/location of where the sun will be in relation to where you are shooting. This is particularly important at sunrise and sunset
  • Cloud coverage
An infographic titled "Photography Planning Apps" featuring three app recommendations. "The Photographers Ephemeris" helps plan shoots by showing sunrise and sunset directions. "Clear Outside" provides weather forecasts focusing on cloud cover. "Willy Weather" offers Australian weather forecasts, including wind, rain, tide, swell, moon phases, and sunrise/sunset times.

Weather

Like all landscape photography, knowing the weather for your seascape photography is essential.

Seeing as the tides, swell and sun have been covered above, by weather I mean clouds, rain, temperature and any potential storm action.

Once again the weather apps mentioned above are essential in this.

Not only will consulting the apps increase your success when you do go out to shoot, it will help improve your safety and avoid unnecessary risks.

Storms and big swells can create really dramatic scenes, but please, not at the risk of your safety.

One final note on weather apps and checking the conditions –  these apps are not always accurate so it’s usually worth heading out anyway. You’re out in the great outdoors enjoying nature, so it’s a win – whether the conditions are great or not.

The exception to this is the tide and swell – DO take note of those.

A moody seascape featuring the underside of an old pier with rusted supports, as waves rush towards the shore, creating dynamic water movement.

Gear

Making sure you have all the right gear can make or break your photo shoot.

This doesn’t mean you have to have the most expensive things, but there are some key essentials.

Your camera and lens are of course essential for any photography. At the end of the day it’s not about fancy gear – use what you have, but here are my tips to get the most out of your seascape photography.

Tripod

Seriously, I don’t think you should be able to buy a camera without buying a tripod as well. And that’s not just for landscape or seascape photography. Tripods are used in every type of photography.

You don’t really need to buy a ridiculously expensive one, but it is something I recommend you do buy the best quality you can afford. You want a nice strong one that can withstand getting wet.

Cameras have come a long way and you can shoot longer shutter speeds and still get a sharp photo, but to do any real kind of long exposure photography, you will need a tripod.

A smiling woman (Sam, the author of this post) in a green shirt stands in a forest, playfully holding a camera tripod across her shoulders like a yoke.
When you get tired of carrying your tripod!

Remote Shutter Release

Long exposure photos can be blurry simply by pressing the shutter button, since even a light touch can shake the camera. Delaying the time between pressing the button and the photo being taken eliminates this.

Most cameras now have a time delay function built in, but if you don’t, then a remote shutter release is essential.

Filters

While the use of filters in seascape photography is not exactly essential, they are strongly recommended.

The two I recommend at a minimum are Circular Polarising Filters and Neutral Density (ND) Filters.

Circular Polarising Filters , can improve colours, darken the sky and avoid glare on the water.

ND Filters reduce the amount of light getting to your sensor so you can increase your exposure time. This is crucial when trying to capture water flow at different speeds.

A coastal scene featuring large rock formations rising out of a smooth, calm ocean, with the sky in a long-exposure shot creating a dreamy, blurred effect. The caption at the bottom reads, "Neutral Density Filters: How To Use For Better Photos."

Footwear

Having the right footwear can literally make or break your seascape photography shoot.

Walking on rocks can be dangerous and extremely slippery. 

I don’t particularly care about getting wet feet (unless it’s bitterly cold) but I do care about falling over and injuring myself. Plus there’s that important gear to protect!

At a minimum get decent hiking shoes or boots with good grip. Unless I’m travelling with limited gear, I always take (and wear) shoes with ‘spikes’ on them like rock fishers do. They have saved me many times and I can’t recommend them highly enough.

Two pairs of rugged boots, one black with cleats and the other maroon, are laid out in the back of a vehicle, ready for outdoor adventures.
At under $100 these have served me well – looks like I need a new pair soon though!

Cleaning Cloths  

Yes, plural. 

Have these ready in case of seaspray – trust me, it’s kind of inevitable if you get up close and personal with waves. I definitely learned this the hard way and got home to find water drops on my photos.

Even on a calm day, you can’t avoid the salt spray in the area along with the sand. Keep this in mind and regularly wipe your lens and/or filters. Even when you don’t think you need to!

Also keep a spare one to give a final wipe before you put your camera away.

A flat lay of landscape photography gear on a wooden surface, including two Canon DSLR cameras with attached lenses, a tripod, memory cards, lens filters, a camera bag, and lens cleaning wipes. The image is captioned with the text "Landscape Photography Gear: What You Need To Get Started."

Basic Camera Settings

While there are no set ‘rules’ for seascape photography settings, it helps to have a starting point.

If you’re unsure, start with these guidelines, take a test shot and adjust as necessary.

ISO 

As you are on a tripod this can be set at 100 and shouldn’t need adjusting.

This may need adjusting if it is really dark when you arrive. You may need a shutter speed longer than 30 seconds. 

If you don’t have a remote or camera setting to take longer exposures, a higher ISO can reduce that shutter speed. BUT don’t forget to adjust it back as the light changes as you want to minimise noise as much as possible.

Aperture 

Set between f8 and f16. This will give you a depth of field so your photos will be in focus from the foreground through to the background. I adjust this to help get the shutter speed I’m looking for, particularly when there is less light.

Shutter Speed

This is the setting that I adjust the most to get the exposure that I’m looking for.

As a general rule it will start at 30 seconds at the lowest light and shorten with the amount of light available.

30 seconds will give you really milky water and nice blur in the clouds, but you will need to adjust with the light accordingly. To capture more detail in the water you will want to adjust this to 1-2 seconds and even higher.

White Balance

I usually keep this on auto as I shoot in RAW and can change this in editing.

If you are shooting in Jpeg this is one of the few things that can’t be changed.

In that case take a couple of shots in either shady or cloudy white balance as this can help bring out the warmer colours. Once again take a shot, have a look, and adjust accordingly.

These settings are designed to be a starting point only. Play around with your settings to achieve the results you’re looking for and based on the available light. 

A serene sunset landscape with silhouetted trees by a calm lake, featuring the text "Best Landscape Photography Camera Settings: Beginner Guide" at the bottom

Timing Is Everything

Now that we’ve covered where to shoot, know what conditions to look for, the essential gear and what your base settings are – WHEN is it best to go?

Sunrise And Sunset 

This has to come first as these really are the best times of the day for seascape photography.

The rising or setting sun showcasing the environment in beautiful golden light is hard to top. It’s not by accident that this is called the ‘golden hour’.

The changing light at these times makes for purely magical images, and really, is there a better way to start or end your day than at the ocean?

During The Day

To be fair, we can’t always be at the location during the magical golden hour.

That doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t shoot seascapes during the day.

Yes, the light is definitely different and harsher, but the locations and scenes are still beautiful.

If possible, cloudy days are best for daytime seascape photography. 

If it’s bright blue skies, and that’s your only opportunity, try using those ND filters to give a bit of interest to the water and sky.

A stunning coastal view featuring a large, arched rock formation jutting out of the ocean, with waves crashing against the shore under a bright blue sky.
Keeping the sun out of the image can also help the focus go to the subject

Composition is Queen!

Composition really is one of the most difficult things to master with every type of photography. This is whether it is landscape, portrait, wedding, architecture, wildlife or seascape photography.

The best photos always have powerful compositions. They usually start with an interesting foreground component that leads you through to a beautiful background.

The rule of thirds is one of the most basic guides you can follow as a starting point, but here are a few other things to bring into the mix.

Strong Foreground And Background Elements

Rather than looking straight to the horizon and the sky, try and look for some interesting elements to place in the foreground and background.

Here’s a few ideas to get you started – 

  • Rock formations
  • Patterns in the sand
  • Rock pools
  • Sea Stacks
  • Moss/Algae
  • Boats
  • Clouds
  • Lighthouses
  • Shells/Driftwood

This is where scouting and having time to look around really pays off.

It’s important to remember that the environment is constantly changing, so things that may not have been there previously can appear and really make your shot unique.

A dramatic coastal scene at sunrise, with a large driftwood log prominently displayed on the rocky shore as waves crash against the background under a vibrant, cloud-filled sky.
This branch had recently washed up on this visit to one of my regular places to shoot. It was gone the next time I visited so it’s truly a unique image.

Balancing The Amount Of Water Versus Sky In Your Image

One of the ‘rules’ of any landscape photography is to avoid putting the horizon in the middle of your image. There are exceptions to this of course, but it is a good starting point.

This means you need to decide to have either more foreground or background in your image, generally more water or sky?

While there is no one answer to this, the thing to focus on is including more of what is interesting. If there’s an incredible sky, you should probably include more of that. But if it’s a boring clear sky, then try and focus on your foreground. 

This is a good opportunity to look at those rocks and water flow right in front of you.

A breathtaking coastal scene with a towering rock formation in the ocean, set against a brilliant sunrise, where the waves and sky seem to compete in vibrancy.

Leading Lines and Framing

Leading lines often form part of a strong composition and for good reason. They can lead the viewer into the subject of your photo.

With seascape photography this is often towards the horizon or interesting sky.

Things to look at for leading lines include jetties, rock walls, patterns in the sand or rivulets of water leading into the ocean. 

Look around to see if there are any ways to incorporate a frame within a frame to add interest and depth to your composition. These could be rock formations, jetties and even the waves.

Once you start looking it’s amazing what you can find.

A peaceful sunrise view with golden hues reflecting off a wet sandy beach, with winding water channels leading the viewer’s eye toward the horizon where the sun is rising.

The Importance Of Shutter Speed

Seascape photography is all about the water and so shutter speed is incredibly important. Simply changing this setting changes your whole image completely.

In other landscape photography, your shutter speed affects the sky mostly as the trees, mountains etc. don’t move.

With seascape photography the water is constantly moving with the waves and tides. 

Your shutter speed can dramatically affect the look of your image as the water will appear totally different depending on your length of exposure.

The look you are after will determine this but as a general guide you can consider these as a starting point – 

A chart titled "Shutter Speed Guide!" with suggested shutter speeds for different effects in photography. The chart includes options like water with texture, smooth silky water, and car trails, with corresponding recommended shutter speeds listed beside each effect.

There really is no right or wrong here, as long as your photo is not over or under exposed. Check the back of your camera each time and adjust as necessary.

At the end of the day it’s all about what you are trying to achieve. If you like it, that’s all that really counts.

One final note here is patience! 

This is particularly true, at least for me, if you are trying to catch that ‘flow’ just right. This really can take a serious amount of shots to get right.

Here it can pay to experiment with using your shutter delay timer, instant shutter or even burst. I’ve still not figured it out!

Reflections

Ahh, who doesn’t love a nice image that captures those perfect reflections? It may not be obvious at first, but seascape photography also offers plenty of opportunities for reflections.

On nice calm days the ocean can act like a mirror and reflect the sky and shore. If there are rock pools you can also see lots of reflections there.

A serene beach scene at sunrise, where the smooth surface of a tidal pool reflects the colorful sky, with gentle waves breaking in the distance.
The fiery sky reflecting on the beach pool as well as the rail

After your shoot

Clean your camera and lenses as you go to keep as much salt off as possible, and clean thoroughly when you get home.

Most cameras these days will cope with a bit of water without long-term issues, but salt will corrode and destroy your camera if not cleaned off as soon as possible.

And this includes your tripod! Even if it’s a waterproof one, you need to give it a good clean to remove all that salt and sand.

The easiest way I have found is to extend it fully outside and give it a good hose. Let it dry while it’s still extended before putting it away ready for your next outing.

When travelling and may not have access to a hose, I’ve often used the shower in my accommodation for this. It works a treat!

Conclusion

BE PREPARED TO GET WET!!

For truly good seascape photography, you really will need to get wet! Taking safety into consideration of course, the best shots are often when you are close to the action. This helps you capture the water fully in its power and glory.

One other thing I always try to have available is a spare pair of shoes and clothes. This along with a nice coffee makes it all worthwhile.

And that’s it. These are my personal suggestions and experiences. I hope you’ve got value of some of these points and ideas.

Get out there – explore the beautiful ocean and fill your lungs with that beautiful salt air.

It’s really no surprise that so many people are drawn to the ocean.

One final safety reminder – keep in mind all the safety tips I’ve mentioned. It’s ok to get wet, but please stay safe!

That’s it for now – Keep Clicking

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